BMW 3 Series E30

since 1983-1994 release

Repair and operation of the car



BMW E30
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engine
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. Exhaust system
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Coupling
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Running gear
+ 12. Body
+ 13. Electric equipment
- 14. Useful tips
   14.2. The changed numbers
   14.3. Purchase of the old car or mysterious set of figures and letters
   14.4. Durability of the car
   14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and trailer
   14.6. Preparation of the car for winter
   14.7. Rule 35
   14.8. Choice of the used car
   14.9. Engine oils
   14:10. What needs to be known, changing oil
   14:11. Emergence in deposit oil
   14:12. Whether it is possible to mix import oils?
   14:13. "Eats" much, but quietly goes
   14:14. It is rather live, than is dead …
   14:15. It is not got - useful tips
   14:16. Visit to car service
   14:17. A gear belt for the gas distribution mechanism drive
   14:18. Wear of pistons
   14:19. Valves
   14:20. Bearings of engines
   14:21. Pollution of the engine
   14:22. As the conditioner works and what to do if it failed
   14:23. Conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses"
   14:24. Rules of service of the conditioner
   14:25. Antifreeze you should not disturb with antifreeze …
   14:26. What should be known upon purchase of the air filter
   14:27. Engine overheat
   14:28. What should be known to the owner of the car with the injector engine
   14:29. Accumulator
   14:30. Possible malfunctions of the rechargeable battery
   14:31. What to do with the failed generator
   14:32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator
   14:33. Catalyst
   14:34. Rub in one - or how to save the catalyst
   14:35. Probuksovochka
   14:36. Features of operation of the brake system
   14:37. Malfunctions of the brake system
   14:38. Brake fluids
   14:39. ABS: natural choice
   14:40. Rims
   14:41. We update rims
   14:42. Scheme of marking of a car tire
   14:43. Metal corrosion
   14:44. Automake-up
   14:45. What creaks?
   14:46. Hatch
   14:47. Safety cushion: troubles or pleasures?
   14:48. We fit well?
   14:49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency"
   14:50. Why headlights grow dull
   14:51. Galogenka
   14:52. About the correct adjustment of headlights
   14:53. Electric motor
   14:54. From change of the places "composed" nothing changes?



14.2. The changed numbers

GENERAL INFORMATION

It is possible "to calculate" on characteristic signs. Buying in the market the used car, especially by proxy, it is easy to catch the car with the changed numbers. Recommendations of experts will help to be saved from such trouble.

Theory. If you decided to buy the second-hand foreign car and chose concrete model, then try to collect about it information maximum in advance. It is the best of all to make it, having examined similar model in salon which trades in new cars. First of all find out where there has to be identification number (VIN). At the car can be additional VIN овские stickers (are carried out as transfers), – learn where they are placed.

Practice. So, you start survey of the chosen car. It should be begun with check of a condition of a paint and varnish covering about identification numbers. It should not differ on color and the invoice from a covering on inside of a luggage carrier, a cowl, motor compartment. A soft surface (there is a deformation trace even from a nail), begin to flow paints and unevenness of its drawing – all this demonstrates that the place where there is identification number, was recoloured. And repaint hides either consequences of accident, or traces of change of number. The covering near number can be rubbed the tampon moistened with solvent: if paint is dissolved at least partially, it is a sure sign of the fact that it is "not native".

Now directly about numbers and identification plates. If number is changed, there are characteristic signs of this operation: the surface of metal is most often deformed, slightly convex or bent. At a handicraft way of thrashing the double contour is swept often up; signs are not on one straight line, and "jump", they have various depth of cave-in; between letters or figures – intervals of different size. Pay special attention to identical signs. They should not differ from each other in a form or the sizes. One more important point: if on identical signs in numbers you noticed any characteristic – be sure that these signs not factory. Company number is put with a uniform stamp, "handicraftsman" for each figure or a letter uses a separate brand and repeats characteristic "mistake".

It is more difficult to reveal the "criminal" car when number is replaced together in a detail or that its part on which it is beaten out. As a rule, in this case number – factory. Therefore it is necessary to examine places of fastening of this detail to a body. The prostukivaniye can be an easy way of detection of such replacement. Has to guard you if a sound at a prostukivaniye deaf, "wooden" or jingling. It is worth remembering that in cars separate parts of a body fasten by method of contact welding. Junctions usually represent points with a diameter of 5-6 mm. If in places of fastening of a "number" detail to a body there are traces of other type of welding, and their surface also are deformed – means, the detail is fixed on a body not in the factory way.

At survey of the engine pay attention to the platform with number: it has to be equal, and signs on it are beaten out accurately and brightly, without double contours. By the way, the platform is pierced on the milling machine from which there are traces in the form of polukruzhiya. They are well visible even at strong corrosion.

It is rather simple to reveal the described signs even to the nonprofessional. There are also others, but they can be revealed only by experts. Also it is worth addressing them if you had doubts.