BMW 3 Series E30

since 1983-1994 release

Repair and operation of the car

BMW E30
+ 1. Maintenance instruction
+ 2. Maintenance
+ 3. Engine
+ 4. Cooling system
+ 5. Heating and ventilation
+ 6. Fuel system
+ 7. Exhaust system
+ 8. Transmissions
+ 9. Coupling
+ 10. Brake system
+ 11. Running gear
+ 12. Body
+ 13. Electric equipment
- 14. Useful tips
   14.2. The changed numbers
   14.3. Purchase of the old car or mysterious set of figures and letters
   14.4. Durability of the car
   14.5. About parallelism of bridges of the car and trailer
   14.6. Preparation of the car for winter
   14.7. Rule 35
   14.8. Choice of the used car
   14.9. Engine oils
   14:10. What needs to be known, changing oil
   14:11. Emergence in deposit oil
   14:12. Whether it is possible to mix import oils?
   14:13. "Eats" much, but quietly goes
   14:14. It is rather live, than is dead …
   14:15. It is not got - useful tips
   14:16. Visit to car service
   14:17. A gear belt for the gas distribution mechanism drive
   14:18. Wear of pistons
   14:19. Valves
   14:20. Bearings of engines
   14:21. Pollution of the engine
   14:22. As the conditioner works and what to do if it failed
   14:23. Conditioner: not only "pluses", but also "minuses"
   14:24. Rules of service of the conditioner
   14:25. Antifreeze you should not disturb with antifreeze …
   14:26. What should be known upon purchase of the air filter
   14:27. Engine overheat
   14:28. What should be known to the owner of the car with the injector engine
   14:29. Accumulator
   14:30. Possible malfunctions of the rechargeable battery
   14:31. What to do with the failed generator
   14:32. The belt is guilty, and we blame the generator
   14:33. Catalyst
   14:34. Rub in one - or how to save the catalyst
   14:35. Probuksovochka
   14:36. Features of operation of the brake system
   14:37. Malfunctions of the brake system
   14:38. Brake fluids
   14:39. ABS: natural choice
   14:40. Rims
   14:41. We update rims
   14:42. Scheme of marking of a car tire
   14:43. Metal corrosion
   14:44. Automake-up
   14:45. What creaks?
   14:46. Hatch
   14:47. Safety cushion: troubles or pleasures?
   14:48. We fit well?
   14:49. Anticreeping "immunodeficiency"
   14:50. Why headlights grow dull
   14:51. Galogenka
   14:52. About the correct adjustment of headlights
   14:53. Electric motor
   14:54. From change of the places "composed" nothing changes?

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14.7. Rule 35

GENERAL INFORMATION

Engine oil can be changed by winter. And whether it is necessary? Certainly and, if now in a case of your car oil summer laps: the frost will strike and it will cease to lap, will freeze. There will be problems. But if you use all-weather oil, then to change it only because winter is at hand, it is not obligatory at all. The main thing not to go by one oil gas station longer than put. It is told in the service book of the car to change oil through N thousand km of a run – change through N.

Cheap but good or expensively yes it is lovely?

Immemorial question: mineral water or synthetics? Than oil synthetic – ftoruglerodny, diradio, silicone, polyalkylenglycoleft – on the properties, of course, it is better mineral (oil). First, at synthetic there is much lower than temperature of hardening. Secondly, with change of temperature at them viscosity changes less, and that is very important, they are not diluted at very strong heating. Thirdly, they evaporate less and burn out. Fourthly, form less deposits polluting the engine: deposits, varnishes and slimes (ointments). Fifthly, their resource of times in five above, than mineral. Sixthly, when using synthetics less mechanical losses in the engine and wear of details. The list of advantages can be continued still points on ten. Only one shortcoming – the price. Synthetic is more expensive mineral by three-five times. Serious blow to a purse. If synthetics is heavy for a pocket, and you essentially do not recognize mineral water, buy semi-synthetics - it is quite reasonable compromise.

In a consolation house-keepers should notice that mineral oils in itself are not bad at all. If synthetics – it is expensive yes lovely, then mineral water – cheap but good. A century went by mineral water and, probably, even a century will go. By the way, in the old car guzzling oil it does not make sense to fill in synthetics: oil and money take off for an exhaust pipe; on a dolivka it is possible to be ruined. Remember that to mix mineral oils with synthetic it is impossible. It is possible to change mineral water for synthetics (and vice versa) without problems, it is necessary only between them minutes twenty to drive the engine on special flushing oil.

Read from 35

Oils classify by two nominations: on viscosity and on quality. Viscosity. The international scale of SAE provides 11 classes of viscosity. Six winter: 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W and 25W (W – winter, winter). And five summer: 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60. All-weather grades designate double marking, for example, 15W-40 or 10W-30, etc.

Not to make the wrong choice of oil by winter, it is useful to remember the so-called rule 35. It is necessary to subtract a winter index of viscosity from number 35 – receive the extreme temperature of pumpability of oil. For example, oil 10W-40 (the summer index does not play 40 roles) keeps fluidity to-25 degrees Celsius (35 – 10 = 25).

The rule 35 is ideally applicable to mineral water, but, unfortunately, is suitable for synthetics assessment a little – it has absolutely special viscous and temperature characteristics. So, for example, synthetics of a class 10W-40 can be calculated also on-50. In general, synthetics is always colder than mineral water of the same class of viscosity therefore with it it is almost impossible to be mistaken (and to freeze). Quality. In our market it is often specified on the American scale of API. Oils are divided into categories: S – for petrol engines and C – for diesels. If oil universal (it suits both those, and others), then it is designated by a fractional index where in numerator – preferable type of the engine. Following S or C letter (or a letter with figure) means actually quality of oil. Today on API petrol oils of level of quality of SH and SJ are the best; diesel – CG4 and CH4.

Europe now even more often uses a new scale of quality – ACEA. On it petrol oils are designated by a letter A (the highest on quality – A3), and oils for automobile diesels – a letter B (the highest – B3).

Several councils. In the worn-out engine where oil the viscosity one class higher recommended is better to pour gaps into a finger through which fuel gets to a case. Similarly – if the engine is inclined to overheating. The class of quality of oil for any motors new and old, has to be not lower stipulated in the service book. Above – it is possible (therefore we also specified only the highest classes).

And main thing. Buy oil only in shops with good reputation. Our wild market abounds with the skilly in beautiful jars made it is unknown where also whom. Do not peck on invitingly cheap. Free cheese, as we know, happens only in mousetraps

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